Wednesday, November 27, 2019

Thanksgiving traditions: Applesauce, Stuffing, Green Beans

Liz called and wondered why certain dishes that are traditional to our family aren't on the blog. Honestly, those recipes are just in my head and are variable, due to the amount needed. But they need to be here so that the traditions can continue or be recalled as needed, so here goes. Adjust your quantities up or down as you like making half again as much or less, or doubling/tripling.

Gram's Applesauce

3 pounds Mackintosh, Stayman, Jonathan, Granny Smith, Winesap, Black Twig, or Pippin apples, peeled, cored and cut into eighths -- you can always use more apples
large pinch of salt
1/2 cup water

1/2 cup sugar -- adjust to taste if using more apples
red food coloring OR a dozen red cinnamon heart candies

In a large heavy bottomed pot with a lid, cook the apples with the pinch of salt and 1/2 cup water over very low heat, covered, for 30 minutes once the apples have begun to simmer. Stir every ten minutes so they don't stick or burn. Check for doneness at 30 minutes, and add time in increments of 10 minutes, stirring and checking for doneness: apples should be very soft and mash easily.

When done, remove from heat, add the sugar and mash the apples to the desired consistency. Add a drop of red food coloring (careful! don't overdo it!) or the cinnamon hearts and stir until thoroughly blended. Pour into a bowl and cool to room temp, then cover and refrigerate at least three hours. Can be made three days ahead and kept refrigerated. Can also be frozen up to a month.  Serve in a cut glass bowl, just like Grams did.

Serves 12 as a Thanksgiving side

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Gram's Stuffing 
This was the way her mother and my grandmother, Tillie, made it, and this recipe is also used by my Aunts, sister-in-law, and cousins. It is THE BEST.

BASE BATCH: can be doubled or tripled
BEST IF MADE A DAY AHEAD AND CHILLED OVERNIGHT 
TIME NEEDED: 2.5 to 4 hours 

2 LARGE heavy bottomed skillets -- cast iron is ideal

2 loaves firm white bread (I use Pepperidge Farm Sandwich Bread), opened and left to dry out a bit (several hours or overnight), cut in 1"cubes and placed in large bowls
3-4 sticks butter (12-16 oz.)  --- will need more, usually
2-3 large yellow onions, peeled, chopped and rinsed; set aside 
3-4 ribs of celery (including leaves), chopped; set aside
2 cups or so chicken or turkey broth (I use Swanson, and buy 2  15 oz. cans so that I have enough for baking outside the bird)
16 oz. whole milk or half and half, or more as needed
1 tsp of salt or to taste
1 tsp of black pepper

Melt a stick of butter in each skillet over low heat, then add half the onions to each skillet, cooking at medium low heat for 10 minutes to soften initially. Add half the celery to each skillet, and stir, cooking an additional 5 to 10 minutes to completely soften the vegetables; season each skillet with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper.

Over medium low heat, add half the bread to each skillet, and stir quickly to coat the bread with butter and toss the veggies. Let the bread saute and toast, lifting and turning so that all the bread becomes toasted --- stir frequently so that the bread doesn't burn. Careful: it can burn very quickly. Add more butter in tablespoons if it's needed to keep the bread and veggies from sticking to the pan.   This process is NOT fast: it takes about an hour, but it's worth the effort.  

Once all the bread is toasted (it will shrink in the pans), add 3/4 cup of milk to each pan, and toss well. The bread and vegetables should become cohesive without becoming a big blob; you should be able to tell there are bread cubes in there but still be a bit cohesive. Add butter as needed to the bottom of the skillet, a tablespoon at a time, to keep the stuffing from sticking. Add 1/2 cup chicken broth to each skillet, and saute slowly over low heat, being careful not to let the mixture burn. Add butter as needed to the bottom of the skillets to keep the stuffing from sticking, and keep stirring. Cook the stuffing for an additional 20 to 30 minutes, stirring and turning frequently. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed,  cooking a few more minutes. More time may be needed; stuffing shouldn't taste raw.  Stuffing should cohere, hold together and become massy and pale golden in color. 

Set aside to cool a couple of hours, then refrigerate at least three hours or so, covered tightly. You can also refrigerate it overnight; the flavors are much better if the stuffing is chilled overnight before using.

On the day of use:

FOR USE IN STUFFING A TURKEY or CHICKEN:
If you are going to stuff a bird, stuffing must be cold. 
Rinse the bird well with cold water both inside and out. Drain the bird well, then pat the skin dry with paper towels, then pat the inside of the bird to remove excess moisture.  
Stuff the cavity lightly and truss the legs together with twine over the flap of skin over the opening. Don't overstuff!   Rub the skin of the dried bird well and liberally with softened butter, season with salt and pepper, and roast the bird as the label directs or the method you like. (You don't need to add extra broth to any stuffing going directly into a bird).  Place the remaining stuffing in a well buttered casserole dish and add a little more chicken broth to it, cover with foil, and proceed as below. 

FOR BAKING THE STUFFING OUTSIDE THE BIRD/WITHOUT A BIRD:
If not stuffing a bird, butter a deep 2 to 3 qt. casserole dish well and spoon the stuffing into the casserole dish without packing it down too densely.  Add a little more chicken broth ( 1/2 cup or so) over the stuffing, and cover with foil. Bake for 45 minutes at 350F --- or whatever temperature you are roasting the bird or other stuff in the oven. Remove foil and bake an additional 30 minutes to brown lightly. 

Base recipe will serve 4 to 6.

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Aunt Debbie's Green Beans 
Another recipe that can be doubled or tripled as needed. Don't add more sugar, though, regardless of quantity

1 bag frozen french style green beans, defrosted and drained; set aside
 2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup finely diced onion
1/2 cup sour cream
6 ounces extra sharp cheddar cheese, shredded and divided: 3/4 cup for the casserole and the remainder for the top
1/2 cup buttery crackers, crushed (Ritz, or Townhouse or something like that)
2 tablespoons melted butter 

Butter a 2.5 quart casserole dish and set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium low heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter; add the sugar, salt, and pepper, stirring to combine. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. add the flour and stir until smooth and combined, then cook an additional 2 minutes. Add the sour cream, and stir. Add 3/4 of the cheddar cheese and stir until combined, then stir in the french style green beans. Cook another minute to heat through.  Spoon into the buttered casserole dish, and top with the rest of the cheese.  Set aside to make crispy topping. 

Stir together 2 tablespoons of melted butter into the 1/2 cup of buttery cracker crumbs and mix well, then sprinkle over the top of the bean mixture. Bake at 350F for 45 minutes or until bubbly and golden.  

Base recipe serves 4 to 6.

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